This piece of feature writing is based on my last Dolpa visit, with the major objective to conduct research on Yarsagumba or Yarchagunbu (Cordyceps sinensis. This unique Himalayan herb is regarded as Himalayan Viagra in the International Market.The research program was sponsored by WWF Nepal Program and organized by SAFE Concern, Kathmandu, Nepal. So, I would like to acknowledge to all, who provided tremendous supports in differnt corners of my work. This article was published in Kathmandu based local magazine "Festival". For the citation:
Devkota, S. 2008. Yarchagunbu Festival in Dolpa. Festival magazine. 4(16-20).
"It is really hard to get a ticket to Dolpa in this season" said Dilli Subedi, a travel agency owner at Nepalgunj. This is the season for Yarchagunbu collection and traders from Kathmandu and other cities heads towards the Dolpa. Thanks god, I somehow got a ticket to Dolpa dated 8th May, 2007. It was 45 minutes flight from Nepalgunj. I remember the saying about Dolpa. "Dolpa is unique for its dissimilar recognition. It preserves the peerless Natural and Cultural heritage contributing their gravity to the entire Himalayan ecosystem and ancient civilizations." Truly, after landing at the bumpy Juphal airport, I tried to catch all the aromas of natural landscapes. Most of the elder women and men were running to help with the luggage of the passenger and take them all the way to Dunei, a district headquarter.
I was in Dolpa, conducting the research on Yarchagunbu, a high praised Himalayan herbal species. Scientifically it is called Cordyceps sinensis and common name is caterpillar fungus. In fact it is a combination of moth caterpillar and Ascomycetes fungi. In the international market it is regarded as Himalayan Viagra. The species occurs in the altitude of 3540-5050m. Heading towards the Dunei, I met Mr. Bishunu Lama, permanent resident of Sahartara VDC, Dolpa. For most of the year he resides nearby Pokhara Municipality, but in this season his whole family returned to Dolpa, collection period of Yarchagunbu is within few days. I could generalize the importance of Yarchagunbu to the local livelihood after his voices. He described me different traditional knowledge and collection ideas related with Yarchagunbu. After 3 hours walk from airport, I reached Dunei small and beautiful settlement on the bank of Bheri river. God! Heaven’s here on earth!
"The collection date of Yarchagunbu in prior years was fixed by the Maoists, but with the changing political scenario, District forest office and Shey-Phoksundo National Park collectively play key role for management of this natural resource. Community Forest User Groups and Buffer Zone Management Committees are also playing active role for giving payment receipt to the collectors" – describes in detailed by local social worker Rabindra Shahi. A week stay at Dunei bazaar helped me to understand more collectors. Collectors all the way from Jajarkot, Rukum and nearby other districts were heading towards the pasture. "We have been walking continuously for five days from Jajarkot, and still need to walk 2 more days to reach the Gyalbara pasture," Rup Bahadur Buda told me. He was carrying a complete home with him. In his duffel bag he had kept, some beaten rice, corn flakes, rice, dal, some dried vegetables, buckwheat flour, some pots for cooking and eating, a thin blanket, a piece of thick plastic and a water gallon. "It's a compulsion for us to visit this remote pasture to earn some money for our studies and to assist parents" – he added softly and gently. The collection plays significant role in the economic life of Dolpa and nearby districts mainly Rukum and Jajarkot, as most of them are utterly dependent on the income from Yarchagunbu for the rest of the year.
I was in Dolpa, conducting the research on Yarchagunbu, a high praised Himalayan herbal species. Scientifically it is called Cordyceps sinensis and common name is caterpillar fungus. In fact it is a combination of moth caterpillar and Ascomycetes fungi. In the international market it is regarded as Himalayan Viagra. The species occurs in the altitude of 3540-5050m. Heading towards the Dunei, I met Mr. Bishunu Lama, permanent resident of Sahartara VDC, Dolpa. For most of the year he resides nearby Pokhara Municipality, but in this season his whole family returned to Dolpa, collection period of Yarchagunbu is within few days. I could generalize the importance of Yarchagunbu to the local livelihood after his voices. He described me different traditional knowledge and collection ideas related with Yarchagunbu. After 3 hours walk from airport, I reached Dunei small and beautiful settlement on the bank of Bheri river. God! Heaven’s here on earth!
"The collection date of Yarchagunbu in prior years was fixed by the Maoists, but with the changing political scenario, District forest office and Shey-Phoksundo National Park collectively play key role for management of this natural resource. Community Forest User Groups and Buffer Zone Management Committees are also playing active role for giving payment receipt to the collectors" – describes in detailed by local social worker Rabindra Shahi. A week stay at Dunei bazaar helped me to understand more collectors. Collectors all the way from Jajarkot, Rukum and nearby other districts were heading towards the pasture. "We have been walking continuously for five days from Jajarkot, and still need to walk 2 more days to reach the Gyalbara pasture," Rup Bahadur Buda told me. He was carrying a complete home with him. In his duffel bag he had kept, some beaten rice, corn flakes, rice, dal, some dried vegetables, buckwheat flour, some pots for cooking and eating, a thin blanket, a piece of thick plastic and a water gallon. "It's a compulsion for us to visit this remote pasture to earn some money for our studies and to assist parents" – he added softly and gently. The collection plays significant role in the economic life of Dolpa and nearby districts mainly Rukum and Jajarkot, as most of them are utterly dependent on the income from Yarchagunbu for the rest of the year.
Caravans heading towards the highland pastures with their full fledge preparation makes the district headquarter more crowded and romantic. (see left figure: Collectors heading towards the pastures of Dolpa; all the way from Jajarkot)Most of the locals, regard collection period as the festival period of Dolpa. The term "Yarchagunbu festival" could be more appropriate. Ins the season 50000 collectors from different districts visits 25 different pastures for the collection. Such a big flow of human beings in the natural rolling pastures results a festive season. "There will be more fun and challenges in the highland pastures"- said Janak Ukheda. In this season every local wish to visit the pasture either to collect or to see the gathering. After a week long stay at the district headquarters, I headed towards the Majhphal village with local assistant. Six hours walk from Dunei, we reached Majhphal village. His house was small and beautiful. It was a warm welcome with Tibetan tea and buckwheat bread. Their hospitality and warmness regardless their financial, resources difficulties and problems made me edgy. While staying a night at his home, I collected all the necessary socio-economic data. "Yarchagunbu is god bless for us" my assistant Bishnu Rokaya emphasized on the importance of Yarchagunbu. He further added names Yarsagumba, Jara (Root), Kira (Insect), Jeevan buti (Life tonic) and Chyau (Mushrooms), etc, as the local names for Yarchagunbu. In the evening with a cup of hot local wine made of barely, I did small interaction with locals. "We are using it for last 20 years for different diseases like headache, diarrhea, and rheumatism; and of course for tonic" they made clear about their uses. Though they know about enhanced sexual power by Yarchagunbu, they do not used it solely for that purpose. They believe that, Yarchagunbu make blood pure, and with pure blood one can do each and every thing smartly. Sex is one of them.
Local people have their own knowledge for the uses of Yarchagunbu. Different doses are used considering its quality and depending on the disease. As a tonic, people normally use a daily combined dose of one Yarchagunbu with half liter of milk and two teaspoons of ghee for a week. Sometimes only Yarchagunbu and milk is also used. This is the general practice system and they believed that in this way every disease could be cure. "Better you test it in unprocessed form – it taste like roasted liver of sheep" – small children from the crowd suggest me. My surprise, I found it same.
We left Majhpal village early in the morning and reached the Pokhypani pasture site in the evening. I was surprised to see such a big crowd in the green pastures. More than 200 tents were set in the open areas nearby forest. With the cold breeze at an altitude of 4000m, they all were burning rhododendron woods for fuel woods. Surprisingly, there were provision of mobile shop and video exhibition. They were showing Nepalese films. "That's why we don't want to take class for months" – said 13 years old Sunita Rokaya. She was a 5th grader and her class will be disturbed for a month. "As all the students and teachers come here to collect Yarchagunbu, We won’t have classes for next month"- said Raju Rokaya. He further added that in his 5 members family only elder father’s at home, rest are here in pastures.
Actually collection procedure is very hard and tedious job. It requires an intensive but extensive search. One has to give full concentration on the ground. The grasslands and shrub lands are vast and the visible part of the fungus is very small, just 2-5cm. As the collection is like the searching of needle in the stack of hay, it is really difficult to find within a short period of time. "In the first day of collection, there is high chance of collecting more in numbers" most of the collectors agree upon this. Mr. Bishnu Rokaya collected 512 in numbers in a single day a set a record among the friends. But in following days, they normally get 10-30. "Today we did not manage to collect fuel wood so have to eat dried foods" told Bishnu' wife. Collection of fuel wood is another difficult task in the highland. Heavy snowfall, shivering cold and loss of lives are common features in the pastures. “Each year some ones unlucky and looses life, But we have no option to sustain without having money generated by Yarchagunu" said Dip Kumar Shahi.
In the evening, after returning from the collection site to the camp, collected Yarchagunbu need to be cleaned with the help of brush. After cleaning it’s stored in a cotton bag. "We should not store it in a plastic bag or container, if so, it deteriorate soon" added 8 years old small boy. Normally in the evening for fun and entertainment they organize programs. Singing folk songs, Watching videos and playing cards are most common ones.
During the two weeks stay in Saiquarry pasture i.e. on May and June; prices of Yarchagunba were relatively stable. Individual specimens depending on size were traded for Rs100-150, bigger the fungus, the higher the price. The income derived from Yarchagunbu is very important for Dolpa and the neighboring districts. "The market of the Yarchagunbu is continuously blooming. The market price is very lucrative from local perspective; it has reached to NRs 500,000-700,000 per kilogram in Dolpa too, the international value is still higher. The major consumption centers of the product are China, Taiwan, Singapore, Hong Kong, Korea, Japan and USA." – said Bishnu Bohara, a local trader.
According to the local respondents and from my self observation, a number of threats are annually posed to the biodiversity of Yarchagunbu growing pastures in Dolpa and these threats are mainly of anthropogenic nature. The major threats were haphazard and unscientific collection of Yarchagunbu; extensive use of fuel wood, hunting of wildlife, and deliberate fires ‘for fuel wood, obtaining better regeneration of Yarchagunbu and securing better grass production for cattle’. "Our pastures are deteriorating day by day due to large mass of collection pressure" – commits Dil Bahadur Buda.
After a month long research in Dolpa, I got an unforgettable opportunity to see and perceives different experiences. Apart from Yarchagunbu festival, the ancient cultural traditions of Buddhists can be experienced first hand there. In fact, remoteness of this place has helped conserve the traditions and vast diversity of medicinal and aromatic plants still found eminently present. Highly diversified vegetation, 1200 plant species, 50 endemic species representing 46 percent of total endemics in Western Nepal is praiseworthy. Some of the oldest monasteries in Nepal are found in this region. People dressed in their religious costumes and treading along yaks. Luckily, I hatched it all and all, hopefully you too. The treasures in hidden valley with rolling hills are incredible.
Local people have their own knowledge for the uses of Yarchagunbu. Different doses are used considering its quality and depending on the disease. As a tonic, people normally use a daily combined dose of one Yarchagunbu with half liter of milk and two teaspoons of ghee for a week. Sometimes only Yarchagunbu and milk is also used. This is the general practice system and they believed that in this way every disease could be cure. "Better you test it in unprocessed form – it taste like roasted liver of sheep" – small children from the crowd suggest me. My surprise, I found it same.
We left Majhpal village early in the morning and reached the Pokhypani pasture site in the evening. I was surprised to see such a big crowd in the green pastures. More than 200 tents were set in the open areas nearby forest. With the cold breeze at an altitude of 4000m, they all were burning rhododendron woods for fuel woods. Surprisingly, there were provision of mobile shop and video exhibition. They were showing Nepalese films. "That's why we don't want to take class for months" – said 13 years old Sunita Rokaya. She was a 5th grader and her class will be disturbed for a month. "As all the students and teachers come here to collect Yarchagunbu, We won’t have classes for next month"- said Raju Rokaya. He further added that in his 5 members family only elder father’s at home, rest are here in pastures.
Actually collection procedure is very hard and tedious job. It requires an intensive but extensive search. One has to give full concentration on the ground. The grasslands and shrub lands are vast and the visible part of the fungus is very small, just 2-5cm. As the collection is like the searching of needle in the stack of hay, it is really difficult to find within a short period of time. "In the first day of collection, there is high chance of collecting more in numbers" most of the collectors agree upon this. Mr. Bishnu Rokaya collected 512 in numbers in a single day a set a record among the friends. But in following days, they normally get 10-30. "Today we did not manage to collect fuel wood so have to eat dried foods" told Bishnu' wife. Collection of fuel wood is another difficult task in the highland. Heavy snowfall, shivering cold and loss of lives are common features in the pastures. “Each year some ones unlucky and looses life, But we have no option to sustain without having money generated by Yarchagunu" said Dip Kumar Shahi.
In the evening, after returning from the collection site to the camp, collected Yarchagunbu need to be cleaned with the help of brush. After cleaning it’s stored in a cotton bag. "We should not store it in a plastic bag or container, if so, it deteriorate soon" added 8 years old small boy. Normally in the evening for fun and entertainment they organize programs. Singing folk songs, Watching videos and playing cards are most common ones.
During the two weeks stay in Saiquarry pasture i.e. on May and June; prices of Yarchagunba were relatively stable. Individual specimens depending on size were traded for Rs100-150, bigger the fungus, the higher the price. The income derived from Yarchagunbu is very important for Dolpa and the neighboring districts. "The market of the Yarchagunbu is continuously blooming. The market price is very lucrative from local perspective; it has reached to NRs 500,000-700,000 per kilogram in Dolpa too, the international value is still higher. The major consumption centers of the product are China, Taiwan, Singapore, Hong Kong, Korea, Japan and USA." – said Bishnu Bohara, a local trader.
According to the local respondents and from my self observation, a number of threats are annually posed to the biodiversity of Yarchagunbu growing pastures in Dolpa and these threats are mainly of anthropogenic nature. The major threats were haphazard and unscientific collection of Yarchagunbu; extensive use of fuel wood, hunting of wildlife, and deliberate fires ‘for fuel wood, obtaining better regeneration of Yarchagunbu and securing better grass production for cattle’. "Our pastures are deteriorating day by day due to large mass of collection pressure" – commits Dil Bahadur Buda.
After a month long research in Dolpa, I got an unforgettable opportunity to see and perceives different experiences. Apart from Yarchagunbu festival, the ancient cultural traditions of Buddhists can be experienced first hand there. In fact, remoteness of this place has helped conserve the traditions and vast diversity of medicinal and aromatic plants still found eminently present. Highly diversified vegetation, 1200 plant species, 50 endemic species representing 46 percent of total endemics in Western Nepal is praiseworthy. Some of the oldest monasteries in Nepal are found in this region. People dressed in their religious costumes and treading along yaks. Luckily, I hatched it all and all, hopefully you too. The treasures in hidden valley with rolling hills are incredible.
